Interdependence in East Greenland - day 2
After a remarkably comfortable night’s sleep at the Nanoq Lodge (polar bear lodge in Greenlandic), our alarms buzz at 7:30 AM to get us moving for our first full day of real Greenlandic adventure. We fuel up on a hearty breakfast, pack our trail lunches, and head straight out the door to explore the island surrounding the village of Kulusuk.
As we hit the trail, a thick, cool fog wraps around the landscape, keeping temperatures hovering around a crisp 40°F to 45°F (5°C to 7°C). Along the way, our guides point out native flora and show us which wild arctic plants are edible. We discover patches of crowberries: tiny, shiny black berries that pop with a juicy, slightly sweet flavor and a subtle bitter finish. There is also the mountain sorrel, a low-growing alpine plant with small heart-shaped green leaves. It has a fresh, sharp, and tart with a bright citrus-like flavor. I pick up some leaves and store them with my sandwich. It will be a great addition to it!
The ground underfoot keeps us on our toes, shifting rapidly from spongy tundra moss and scattered boulders to sandy patches, bubbling creeks, muddy marshes, and loose river rock. It’s dynamic, rugged terrain, but the sublime views mean we’re more than happy to keep a steady, unhurried pace.
We are not following a trail which means we do have to pay attention and look down every step of the way.
Out here, safety in the backcountry is step number one and today that means learning how to handle potential polar bear encounters. We get a hands-on tutorial on operating flare guns to scare off inquisitive bears. From this point on, flare safety becomes second nature: even a simple trail bathroom break requires carrying a flare gun and keeping a sharp, 360-degree eye on the surrounding horizon.
As the morning wears on, the marine fog slowly burns off, unveiling sweeping, jaw-dropping vistas. As we trek, the rhythm of the trail brings our crew closer together. There’s something special about venturing into remote wilderness, it automatically attracts a group of women who share the same gritty, adventurous spirit. Along our route, history is everywhere. We pass the mossy remnants of an old stone wall once built by traditional caribou hunters, as well as the ruins of a historic turf house where multiple families used to huddle together to survive harsh arctic winters.
We stop for lunch on the open tundra while Jukku shares fascinating stories about his family and life in East Greenland, before slowly making our loop back toward the village.
While John assured us bear sightings are pretty rare this time of year, we aren't taking any chances out here on the trail. Before we kicked off our hike, he walked us through the full safety protocol so everyone feels confident and prepared.
Here is how we’re staying safe and smart on the trail:
Stick Together: John’s carrying a rifle as a backup, but our best defense is staying tight. No wandering off, we keep the pack together while moving.
Eyes Up, Heads up: We’re keeping a continuous 360-degree watch on our surroundings. Constant vigilance is key when you're sharing space with wildlife.
Flare Practice: We all got hands-on practice learning how to operate the flares properly.
Having a solid plan in place lets everyone breathe a little easier, focus on the trek, and enjoy every mile ahead.
Yes that is an iceberg right there in the middle!
The village of Kulusuk
We spent the entire day trekking across the island, logging miles through every kind of terrain imaginable, from rocky ridges to windswept coastlines. The views were pure, unfiltered eye candy, and honestly, we kept pinching ourselves. Blue skies, incredible energy, and total gratitude for being out here.
Every turn brought a "wow" moment, but the real highlight was the crew. The vibe was chill, the conversation was flowing from all sides, and the collective stoke level was off the charts. Perfect day, unbeatable trail family, total awe.
Back at the lodge, we’re greeted with a delicious afternoon spread. We gather over a topo map, John walks us through our itinerary for the next few days. Out here, logistics are entirely dictated by the mood of the weather and sea conditions. We closely monitor the local forecast to see if the weather will grant us a safe window to kayak across the fjord to the next major island, or if we’ll need boat transport to drop us off further down the coast.
After warm showers and another delicious dinner, we retreat to our rooms to prep for the days ahead. Tomorrow is a big, pivotal leg of the journey, and the entire team is primed and ready. I grab my camera for a few final shots from my window, and once again, it takes serious willpower to pull myself away from the late-night twilight glow. I pull on my sleep mask and drift off, wired with that pure, unadulterated excitement for what lies ahead.
